Sunday, November 18, 2007

Bought my ticket


After numerous attempts to piece together my own arrangements to get to Kigali, I finally gave up and let AAA do it for me. The woman who helped me had never heard of Kigali (many people haven't). After confirming that Rwanda is in Africa, she spent a lot of time with me investigating various possibilities for getting there and back, one of which cost $8500 for coach! It's not easy to get there from here. Eventually we found flights that I could live with (i.e., without too many stops) at a price that didn't make me sick to my stomach. Going over, I'll fly direct from Cincinnati to Paris. After spending the day in Paris, I'll go on an overnight flight to Nairobi, then from there to Kigali. On the way home, I'll go through Johannesburg (with an inexplicable stop in Bujumbura, which is probably a half-hour flight from Kigali) and Atlanta. I'll be leaving on January 29 and getting to Rwanda on January 31. I'll leave Rwanda on March 5 and get home on March 6.

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Returning to Rwanda

Those of you whom I've talked to about Rwanda know that even while I was still there, I was pondering how and when I'd be able to return. Well, I already have my answer in the form of a very cool American lady who runs a home for children in a Rwandan town called Gitarama.

Because I traveled to Rwanda with a group of social workers and lawyers, we visited several social work organizations. One of them, the Urukundo Home for Children, made a strong impression on me. It's run by an American lady named Arlene Brown who, at the traditional age, experimented with retirement for about a year and found out she hated it! (Hating retirement challenges my imagination, but hey, we're all different!) So she ended up opening a home for children in a sizeable (for Rwanda) town not too far from the capital, Kigali.

The social worker/lawyer group arrived late at Urukundo, so we toured the various buildings at night. Even in the dark, I could tell that this was a place in which children were happy to live and where they were well cared for and loved. The buildings were simple, homelike, and personalized. Arlene and her staff had prepared a delicious dinner, and after dinner the children sang and danced for us. Their closing number, much to my surprise, was Edelweiss. For some reason, hearing a group of African orphans sing a song about a little white flower native to a faraway country brought me to tears. The children seemed delighted to sing for us, and their affection for their "Mama," Arlene, was obvious (and vice versa).

What impressed me most about Arlene was her ambitious, yet achievable, plan to make Urukundo self sustaining. Although her donors are generous, she knows that the best legacy she can leave the children is to ensure that the home is always able to operate, even after she is no longer managing the place. Already, the home's chicken farm generates income from egg sales, and Arlene and her staff also operate a guest house for travelers. Her next move is to purchase a large plot of land upon which she will build more buildings for children to live in, a day care center, a school, and several other projects. She needs $35,000 right away to secure the land, so she's going home to the US in January to meet with her donors and do some other fund raising.

I heard through the Rwanda "grapevine" I've maintained since I got home that Arlene was looking for someone to manage the home and associated operations while she's back in the US for several weeks. I immediately sent out some emails to my Rwanda contacts, and called Arlene the following day to discuss the possibility of being the person to manage the place while she's gone. She pretty much said "C'mon over." Due to previous commitments, I can't get there until the end of January, but another woman (Candy, from Arizona) from my social worker/lawyer group will be there in early January. She and another young woman (Micaela, from Germany) will manage the place together. When I get there, Candy will return home, and Micaela and I will work together until Arlene comes back.

Although I will miss my friends and family (and yeah, even my coworkers...), I am beyond excited about the opportunity to get to know Rwanda better while making a worthwhile contribution to the welfare of children. Rwanda has a huge number of orphans, some of whom are fortunate enough to have a place like Urukundo to call home. Other less fortunate kids live in the streets. Some work as house boys or girls (cooking, cleaning, etc. for a family), where they may or may not be well treated and may or may not have the opportunity to go to school.

The only thing I regret about my visit to Rwanda in September 2007 was that I neglected this blog. Keeping it up would not only have enabled my friends, family, and coworkers to share my experiences, but would also have provided me with a diary of my trip. As it is, I'm piecing together a diary of sorts from memory, emails to various people, and stories and pictures from my fellow travelers. Next time, I'll keep up the blog! Also, I was astonished by the number of people who asked me about it and said they missed it when I quit writing. Ok, folks, I'll do better next time, I promise.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

September 18, 2007

We rescheduled our visit to the Kigali Memorial Centre to today. It's a genocide memorial where over 250,000 bodies (or parts of bodies) are buried, with room for more because bodies are still being found. All of the people who work there are genocide survivors who tell their stories every day. The displays were at times difficult to look at, but it's important for people to understand because genocides keep happening. People here seem hopeful about the future and proud of the progress Rwanda has made in rebuilding, healing, and reconciling.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Sunday September 16, 2007

I'm finally here. It look just about forever, but it's all worth it now. For the moment, I'm sitting in the lobby of my hotel (free wi-fi), and it actually feels more like Europe than Africa, i.e., the hotel is a little too nice. What to say? The airport in Kigali is so small we rode in the plane almost to the front door of the main building. We drove around the city quite a bit this afternoon--it's a patchwork of modern and timeless. A lot of construction is going on--new government buildings, houses, and apartment buildings and yet you see people carrying loads of bananas and firewood on their heads. People stop and stare at a busload of muzungus (white people), but then they usually wave.


We saw some genocide stuff today--Camp Kigali where the Belgian UN Peacekeepers were killed on the first day of the genocide is now a simple and moving museum and memorial site. We also saw the Hotel des Milles Collines (the hotel in Hotel Rwanda), stopped to use their restrooms actually, so I took some pictures of the hotel and pool. I don't think I'll have a chance to swim there, but our hotel has a nice pool too (just not famous).


We'll see another genocide memorial tomorrow on the way to Butare, then we'll be done with that stuff and focus more on how Rwanda has changed. By the way, you see very little litter here, and plastic bags (grocery bags) are illegal because they cause so much litter.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

September 9, 2007

It's Sunday, and I'm leaving for Rwanda on Friday. Yesterday, I bought a bunch of "stuff" for my trip--typical American, I guess. We always have to buy more stuff! I bought some fabulous hiking boots, one of those superabsorbent towels (handy for washing up on the plane--it will take us 2 days to get there), and a reusable, foldable water bottle. That's not so bad, is it?